On to Sanfo-Aduam

“A Peace Corps Volunteer is a person who, finding a cup of water that is half full, will take a bucket bath in it.”  CD Mike Koffman

Headquarters Accra

Luciano and I were driven right to the PC headquarters for our medical work on Sunday morning. We didn’t have to wait for a lorry or anything–what babies we were.  Actually lou is the oldest in our group and I’m second oldest.  People treat us very nice in Ghana.  Monday was a holiday so no tests until Tuesday. Without any thing to do we got an American style breakfast,  I bought some real sharp cheddar cheese at a western style (expensive) grocery/department store, and I bought expensive Ghanaian food for dinner.  I spent over 30 c for food that day (yikes!)  our per diem is 8 c/day!  I reined my spending and don’t think I spent more than 5 c all day on Tuesday–I even skipped the new Batman movie (10 c).

Ghanaian’s are reputed to be genuinely helpful– especially to old people.  Giftie, one of the PC trainers, told us, if we need directions, to ask a child, a woman or an older man.  She said we should be careful about younger men.  They are just as helpful in Ghana and most of them are fine too, but people who might lead you to a place where you could be robbed or worse, are virtually all young men.

So I left HQ bright and early Wednesday morning to go to my station. Lou stayed back for another test. so  I left with Jenn a PCV who offered to carry one of my bags.  She balanced it on her head and we walked to catch a cab or lorry.  She negotiated a 2 cd ride for both of us to the lorry stop and helped me get on a lorry to the central station. 

The central station made no sense at all.  I couldn’t even see where the buses parked.  So I asked a young woman how to get to the VIP bus station.  She insisted on taking one of my bags on her head and showed me where it was.  It was across a very busy divided road, so she negotiated a 3 cd ride with a cab, who took me through two very long traffic queues to the station.  In the second, he pulled up on the right to the second car in the left turn lane and spoke to the other driver who let him cut in. I asked if he were a friend and the driver said yes, but Ghanaians tend to answer “yes” to most questions unless you ask them to reduce the price.

The ride to Kumasi was in a large comfortable bus.  There was a lot of construction until we reached the eastern region, close to my homestay town (Anyinasin). But it was smooth thereafter.  In Kumasi, I had to find the Bekwai lorry stand.  A young woman asked me where I was going, took my bag on her head and said “follow me”.  She asked at three rows of lorries in a packed station and we had to cross a busy road (not too hard when traffic is jammed), but finally she found the ticket guy and we bought the ticket.  My counterpart met me in bekwai and helped find the line cab  to Sanfo.  He drives a drop cap himself so he had to go back to work.  Line cabs follow a route and are cheap, drop cabs take you exactly where you want to go and are more expensive.

The Net's up the room is sparce but large.  I'm good.

Anyway I made it to my house, my neighbors were gone and the room was locked so I walked into town and bought some oranges and bread without speaking English. I didn’t bargain much because the prices were better than accra or new tafo, but I felt good because on the way my Ghanaian women helpers did all the bargaining for me. My neighbor, madam Esther (She also teaches at my school), soon arrived and helped me sweep it a bit and put up my net.  It is good to be here.  I will shop for some things for my room and see if I can make it feel more like home and a place where a visitor might want to stop on her or his way to the Cape Coast.

Ghanaian Folk & Spider Stories

Kwaku Anansi and Ghanaian Folk Tales

The many Ghanaian cultures use folk tales to instruct the young and the old in good conduct and acceptable behavior.  Animals replace humans in the stories to make them more humorous and acceptable to people of all ages.  Every story contains a moral so that mothers can use them to guide their children as well as entertain them and enrich their imaginations.  Elephants, hippopotami, hares, snails, ants and tortoises figure in the stories, but the most famous of all is the spider, Kwaku Anansi (or Ayiya in the Ewe regions). 

“The role ascribed to this creature is always ignoble.  He is permanently trying to trick and deceive his way through life but despite innumerable attempts to defeat him, he survives all the snares laid for him.  He is the true trickster figure, the one we love to hate who appears in various guises (aka br’er rabbit) in folk tales all over the world.”[1]

---

[1] Anna Cottrell, Once Upon a Time in Ghana, Troubadour Press, 2007, pp xxii,xxiii

Kwaku Ananse and the Glue Man

Once upon a time Kwaku lived with his wife and 3 children.  Kwaku Ananse was a farmer and had a big farm where they plant vegetables and yams. Kwaku Ananse did not like to share all his food so when the food was ready Kwaku Ananse pretended to be sick.  He then told his wife and children that he is going to die, and if he die they should bury him in his farm.  They should use cooking utensils like pots and pans and spoons and mortars and pestles when they bury him. About a week later Kwaku Ananse died. When he died, his wife and children did as he told them to do.  After the death of Kwaku Ananse, in three days time, Kwaku Ananse’s wife and children began to realize people have been stealing food from their farm. The wife and children think it was a thief who was stealing their food, not knowing that Kwaku Ananse himself had been eating the food.  So one day, someone told Kwaku Ananse’s wife to make something called a “glue man” to catch the thief. They carved a tree so it looked just like a man and poured glue on the tree and they put the glue man in the farm. 

Let go of my hand or I'll hit you
with my foot

The next night Kwaku Ananse wake up to prepare some food and eat it when he saw glue man.  Kwaku Ananse ask glue man: “Who are you and what do you want on my farm?”  Glue man didn’t mind Kwaku Ananse so Kwaku Ananse told glue man “Go away from my farm or I’ll hit you!” Glue man didn’t mind Kwaku Ananse, so Kwaku Ananse used his right hand to hit glue man and his hand stick.  He said to glue man “Let go of my hand or I’ll hit you again!” Glue man didn’t mind so Kwaku Ananse hit glue man with his other hand and his other hand stick.  He told glue man: “Let go of my other hand or I’ll hit you with my leg!”  Glue man didn’t mind Kwaku Ananse so he used his leg and that leg also stick. Kwaku Ananse said “Glue man, let go of my hands and my legs or I will hit you with my head.  Glue man didn’t mind nothing Kwaku Ananse say so he used his head and it also stick. 

The next morning Kwaku Ananse’s wife and children come to the farm, they met Kwaku Ananse hanging on glue man, so they hoot at Kwaku Ananse and Kwaku Ananse was  ashamed. When they freed Kwaku Ananse he ran away and hide in the corner of the house.  That is why spiders always hide in corners.

The lesson is not to be so selfish with your things that you do not share them with your wife and children.  

Stories by Ama Ago, Illustrations by Melissa Rudge

Kwaku Ananse and the Six Children

Long, long ago there lives Kwaku Ananse and his six children in a small village. One day Kwaku Ananse heard there was going to be a feast in the four villages near him. Kwaku Ananse knew there was going to be food in all of these four villages and Kwaku Ananse wanted to eat all the food in the four villages.

All four children pulled their rope at
the same time

So Kwaku Ananse sent two of his children to go and visit the villages and tell him the food they are preparing.  Then Kwaku Ananse give four ropes to each of the four remaining children. Kwaku Ananse told the four children to tie the ropes around his waist and take the rope to go to each village. Kwaku Ananse told them when food is ready they should pull the rope so he would first know food is ready in that village before anybody else. But Kwaku Ananse was unfortunate. All four villages got food ready at the same time and all four children pulled the rope at the same time.  So Kwaku Ananse couldn’t move to any of the villages.  He stand in one place and all four children pulled him so he died.

If Kwaku Ananse was not so greedy, he could have gone to one village and had plenty of food to eat.

Ama & Melissa

The Animal’s Kingdom-a Ghanaian Story

Once upon a time there lived all the animals.  All the animals sin against Nana Nyankopon,  so Nana Nyankopon decide to punish them. Nana Nyankopon decide not to let the rain fall. So there wasn’t rain for so many years that all the trees in the forest started dying.  The animals did not get water or food to eat so most of the animals die.  So they pray to Nana Nyankopon and Nana Nyankopon told them he would forgive them. But in order to let the rain fall, there is a big tree on the big mountain. They should go and climb the mountain and ask the mountain the name of the tree.  If the mountain tell them the name of the tree they should climb down the mountain and shout the name of the tree and then there would be rain for them.

So the animals were glad.  They decided to send the fast and brave animal to go and find the name of the tree. So the king of the animals asked them to gather under the big tree in the kingdom. The king of the animals announced to them whoever would go the mountain and get the name of the tree would be king and he would be dethroned.

So Lion told them he was brave and strong and he would go and bring the name of the tree.  Lion run up the mountain and he ask the mountain the name of the tree and the mountain told him. He run down the mountain but unfortunately he forget the name of the tree.  The other animals were unhappy. Hare was fast and smart so hare decide to go to the mountain and get the name of the tree.  He run up the mountain. The mountain told him the name of the tree and he run down the mountain, but unfortunately he also forget the name of the tree.

High Five

Then Tortoise and Snail say they are small and slow but they would go and bring the name of the tree.  All the animals laugh at them because they know that Tortoise and Snail can’t even climb the mountain. Tortoise and Snail walk so slowly it take many years to reach the mountain.  They ask the mountain the name of the tree and the mountain told them then they walk slowly down the mountain.  It took them so many years all the animals forget about them; they think they are dead. So one day the animals were thinking about themselves and all of a sudden Tortoise and Snail appear and they shout the name of the tree: “The Wishing Tree”. All the animals were surprised and happy.  It then rain so there was enough food and water for everyone to eat and drink. They make Tortoise and Snail king of the animals.

Moral: Two heads are better than one.  Lion was strong and brave but couldn’t make it.  Hare was fast and smart but couldn’t make it.  Tortoise and Snail were able to make it even though they were small and slow.  Nana Nyankopon is God.

Story by Ama Ago, Illustrated by Melissa Rudge

Meet my Peace Corps Homestay sister Ama, the author of the Ghanaian Stories in my Blog.

My name is Cecilia Ago Asantewaa.  I will begin Form 2 (Grade 8) in Anyanisin Presby JHS in September.  I like school and church, and I like to play ampe and volleyball.  I want to study to become a journalist.  I am a member of the 4H club at my school. The crops I grow in the school garden are carrots, cabbage and lettuce. I love my friends and my family.

(by the way, Ama was the #1 student in her Form 1 class.  I have 5 of her stories which I hope to use for part of my training here.  Most of them are about the famous spider, Kwaku Anansi, but not all.)